Tag: crochet

Desert Hat

Desert Hat

Free crochet pattern

Desert Hat

Wanna quick hat that’s not boring, yet easy to make? With Desert Hat, it’s the little details that make all the difference. Crocheted in squishy worsted-weight wool, this hat uses simple stitches, put together in an interesting way and worked in the round, to create a hat that looks unique without being fussy. The button tab is everything, so be sure to choose a button that really speaks to you. It’ll be the focal point, framed by this super fun stitch pattern. #WeCILoveYarn21 

Want a printable .pdf for just $1.99? Click here.

Get Ready

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, sc, sc2tog, scblo, dc

Yarn:  Worsted (#4) Merino, 150 yards

Shown in Knit Picks’ High Desert in “Dusk“
Hook: I9/5.5mm

Sizes: Adult medium 20” circumference (to fit 19-22” circ.) 

Gauge:  8 st x 6 rows = 2” 

Also takes one (1) button: 3 /4.” Please take your time picking your button as this will be the little detail that really makes a big difference.

Desert Hat

Get to Stitchin'

Pattern:

Ch 4, Join w/ sl st. 

1) Ch 2 (does not count as st, here and throughout,) 12 dc in loop. Join.  = 12 st

2) Ch 2, 2dc in each st around. Join.  = 24 st

3) Ch 2, *dc, 2dc; rep from * around. Join.  = 36 st

4) Ch 2, *dc 2, 2dc; rep from * around. Join.  = 48 st

5) Ch 2, *dc 3, 2dc; rep from * around. Join.  = 60 st

6) Ch 2, *dc 4, 2dc; rep from * around. Join.  = 72

7) Ch 1, *sc, ch 1, sk 1; rep from * around. Join.

8) Sl st into ch-1 sp, ch 2, *2dc in ch-1 sp; rep from * around. Join.  

9-18) Rep 7-8

19) Ch 1, sc around. Join.

Tab:

1) Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.  = 9 st

2) Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog. Turn.  = 7 st

3) Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog. Turn.  = 5 st

4) Ch 1, sc2tog, ch 1, sk 1, sc2tog. Turn.  = 2 st, 1 ch-1 sp

5) Ch 1, sc2tog in st + sp, sc2tog in same sp + last st. Turn.  = 2st

6) Ch 1, sc2tog. Turn.

7) Ch 1, sc evenly down side of tab, scblo around, sc evenly up side of tab. Join.

Cut yarn. Weave in ends. Add button.

Complete!

Hooray! You have a cool new hat. Do you like it? I bet you love it. I sure do love mine. I’d love to see what you’ve made (and especially what button you picked!) Share a pic to your favorite social media and tag @RowsAndRoses and #RowsAndRosesDesertHat so we can all be inspired by your awesome choices. As always, if you need me, I’m just a click or two away.

Heartbeat

Heartbeat

FREE crochet pattern

Heartbeat

Heartbeat is here, and just in time for Valentine’s Day. I”ve been working on this design for weeks and am finally ready to share! This gorgeous cotton shawl is crocheted using three colors of WeCrochet’s Memento. 100% Pima cotton, the stitch pattern utilizes my favorite: the “drop & swap” technique, to bring you color striping that only LOOKS complicated. Heartbeat is worked from tip to edge, and features a lovely border. You’ll want to wrap up in this cozy shawl every day. 

Want a printable .pdf  of Heartbeat for just $1.99? Click here.

Get Ready...

Stitches:   Ch, sc, dc
Yarn:  WeCrochet’s Memento (#4 worsted-weight, 100% Pima Cotton, 232 yards/100g) 1 ball each of Moonshadow, Winter Bloom, and Fuchsia
Hook:  J10
Sizes:  52” long, 36” along scalloped edge
Gauge:  20 sts x 8 rows = 4” in st patt, blocked

NOTES:
~ There is no need to cut your yarn after each row. Simply drop your current color and pick up the available color during your last pull-through of each row. This is called the “drop & swap” and you can carry your yarns up the sides of your project. When you finish your last row, you will sc over all those long “floats” all the way around, creating a lovely border.
~ All odd rows are worked in dc, and all even rows are worked in sc.

Heartbeat

Let's do it!

Pattern:

Ch 4

Row 1) In C1, (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2dc) all in 3rd ch from hook, dropping C1 and picking up C2 on final pull-through. (Beginning ch-3 counts as st, here and throughout.) Turn.  = 5 dc, 2 ch-1 sp

Row 2) In C2, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1, sc, dropping C2 and picking up C3 on final pull-through. Turn.  = 5 sc, 2 ch-1 sp

Row 3) In C3, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, sk 3 st, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc, dropping C3 and picking up C1 on final pull-through. Turn.  = 6 dc, 3 ch-1 sp

From here on out, I will not be specifying which colors to use; you will utilize the drop & swap method, as established.

Row 4) Ch 1, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk 2, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1, sc. Turn.  = 6 sc, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp

Row 5) Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, sk 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, sk 1, dc. Turn.  =  8 dc, 4 ch-1 sp

Row 6) Ch 1, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk 2 sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1, sc. Turn.  = 8 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-2 sp

Row 7) Ch 3, *(dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, sk 3; rep from * to last ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last st. Turn.  =  9 dc, 5 ch-1 sp

Row 8) Ch 1, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, *ch 2, sk 2, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 2 st, ch 1, sk 1, sc in last st. Turn.  = 9 sc, 2 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp

Row 9) Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sk 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, dc in last st. Turn.  = 11 dc, 6 ch-1 sp

Row 10) Ch 1, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, *ch 2, sk 2, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 2 st, ch 1, sk 1, sc in last st. Turn.  = 11 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 2 ch-2 sp

Rep Rows 7-10 twenty-three (23) more times.

Rep Rows 7-8 one (1) more time.

Using next available color, work edging as follows:

Dc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 3, sl st into 1st ch, sl st) into next ch-2 sp, 7dc into next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end of row. DO NOT CUT YARN. Pivot work, and sc evenly across top of shawl, 3sc in “point” at tip of shawl, sc evenly down final side of shawl. Join to 1st dc with sl st. 

Cut all yarn. Weave in all ends. Block.

All Finished!

And there you have it! A lovely Heartbeat, made of lovely yarn, stitched with ALL the love <3 And it didn’t even take very long, did it? Don’t forget to check out my other free patterns!

I’d love to see your Heartbeat creations! Post a pic to your favorite social media and tag #RowsAndRosesHeartbeat and @RowsAndRoses so we can all be inspired by your amazing abilities. As always, if you need me, I’m only a click or two away.
#WeCAmbassadorsFeb21

Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks. 
Email: sati@rowsandroses.com
Website: www.rowsandroses.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Shipwrecked

Shipwrecked

FREE crochet pattern
Shipwrecked

How many times have I heard, “Oh what a beautiful yarn! But… I just don’t know what to make with it?” Too many times to count! This gorgeous slubby yarn, hand-dyed by Treehouse Knits, just cries out to be touched. So let’s make it shine! Shipwrecked calls to mind tattered sails and sunken treasure. Worked from one end to the other, you can enjoy this simple lacy stitch pattern right up until you run out of yarn, or until you feel that your scarf is long enough. No need to measure, and once you’ve mastered the stitches, no need to count. Shipwrecked is truly the epitome of easy and enjoyable crochet.

Want a printable .pdf of this pattern for just $1.99? Click here.

Details

Stitches:  Ch, sc, standing dc (sdc,) dc
Yarn:  Treehouse Knits Slub in “Jarrahdale,” (fingering #1, 438 yards/100g) 1 skein
Hook:  I9/5.5mm
Sizes:  6” wide, length is completely customized

Gauge:  20 st x 9 rows = 4” unblocked

NOTES:
I have found that unblocked looks best in this yarn, for this particular pattern. So no need to block your Shipwrecked 🙂

Shipwrecked

Let's get wrecked!

Pattern:

Ch 30

Row 1) SC in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn.  = 29 st

Row 2) SDC in 1st st, *ch 3, sk 3, DC; rep from * to end. Turn.

Row 3) SDC in 1st st, *(DC, ch 2, DC) in ch-3 sp, DC; rep from * to end. Turn.

Row 4) SDC in 1st st, * ch 1, sk 1, DC in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1, DC in next DC; rep from * to end. Turn. 

Rep Rows 2-4 until you feel your scarf is long enough, or until you run out of yarn.

Cut yarn, weave in ends.

Shipwrecked on table

All finished! Wow, just look at your super cool scarf. I’m so proud of you! I’d love to see your creation. Just share a pic to your favorite social media and tag it #RowsAndRosesShipwrecked and @RowsAndRoses so we can all see how awesome you are. As always, if you need me, I’m only a click or two away.

Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks. 

Email: sati@rowsandroses.com

Website: www.rowsandroses.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet

Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Reflect

Reflect

FREE crochet pattern!

Reflect cloths

Want to make a really fun dish cloth? Do you want it to match your Blue Willow dishes? Look no further! This yarn is a perfect match for those family heirlooms; indeed it will look as if you chose yarn that was absolutely MADE for them! Reflect is worked in the round from the center out, using griddle stitch, and includes a single-crochet edging in a second color. The griddle stitch is solid, perfect for scrubbing! Additionally, the linen content in this yarn makes it nice and strong, so your dish cloth will last through many many scrubbings and washing and dryings. And you know what? I bet you can’t make just one. And why would you want to?

Want a printable .pdf of this pattern? Grab it here for just $1.99

Pattern Info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, DC, SDC (standing Double Crochet)

Yarn:  Cotlin Reflections (70% Tanguis cotton/30% linen, 246 yards/100g) less than half a skein per color. Samples shown in Stream, Crest, and Eclipse.

Hook:  US7/4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge. You will also need six (6) stitch markers.

Sizes:  9” straight across from tip to tip

Gauge:  6 SC x 10 rows = 2”

NOTES:

~ All odd number rounds are worked without increases.
~ All even number rounds are worked with increases.
~ Each even number round will increase by 12 st.

If you’ve never worked a SDC (standing Double Crochet) here’s a tutorial!

Let's do it!

Pattern:
Ch 4. Join with sl st to form a ring.

1) Ch 1, *SC, DC; rep from * five times. Join.  = 12 st

2) SDC, *(SC, DC, PM, SC) in next DC, DC in next SC; rep from * around, ending with (SC, DC, PM, SC) in last DC. Join.  = 24 st

3) Ch 1, *SC, DC; rep from * around.

4) SDC, SC,* (DC, SC, DC) in M, SC, DC, SC; rep from * around, ending with a SC in last st. Join.  = 36 st

5) Rep Round 3

6) SDC, *(SC, DC) to next M, (SC, DC, SC) in M, DC; rep from * around, ending with DC, SC. Join.  = 48 st

7) Rep Round 3

8) SDC, *SC, (DC, SC) to next M, (DC, SC, DC) in M; rep from * around, ending with SC, DC, SC. Join.  = 60 st

9) Rep Round 3

10) SDC, *(SC, DC) to M, (SC, DC, SC) in M, DC; rep from * around, ending with SC, DC, SC. Join.  = 72 st

Edging:

Join CC in same st for new round.

1) Ch 1, *SC to M, (SC, ch 2, SC) in M; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

2) Ch 1, *SC to ch-2 sp, (SC, ch 2, SC) in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

3) Rep Round 2

4) Ch 1, *SC to ch-2 sp, 3SC in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

Cut yarn, weave in ends. Block to measurements.

3 Reflect spread

All finished! Now go wash your dishes with their new best friend and see what they think 😉 I’d love to see your cloths! Share a pic to social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesReflect so we can all see what you’ve made (especially if you made them to match your RED WILLOW!) 

I have other free patterns available as well, such as Summer Silk and the ever-popular Felici On The Double Cowl. If you need anything or have any questions, as always I’m just a click or two away.

Weaving in Ends

Weaving in Ends

Taming the squiggles

We’ve all been there. You finish a project and you just can’t WAIT to wear it! But…… before you do, you need to weave in all those yarn ends. If your project just so happens to be made in multiple colors, you may have A LOT of those little squiggles hanging off every which way. How many of us sometimes just say, “I’ll do it later” and toss the project somewhere, where it sits…. and sits…. and sits? 
Sometimes weaving in ends seems like such an insurmountable task. Today I’m going to show you how I do it, in hopes that maybe I can offer some help.

Joining a New Strand

I always try to use the 1-2-3 method of weaving in ends.  This means having the yarn end go underneath the stitches first forward, then backward, then finally forward again before cutting. When joining a new strand of yarn, I can actually work the 1 in when the joining happens, so I only have to do the 2-3 when the project is done! Let me explain.

This picture is taken from the back side, and shows you the blue strand of yarn, which is the new strand just joined. After I joined it in the last stitch, I crocheted OVER TOP of it for about 6 stitches, holding the strand against the back. This secured the end for about 2 inches.

Once I have finished the project and am ready to weave in the ends, I got back to where my ends are. I thread the end through a tapestry needle, skip one “strand” or “leg” of the last stitch that secured it, and run back the other way, under all stitches for about an inch.

Don’t pull too tightly here! Just pull enough so that you don’t have a big loop hanging out. We’re going to snug everything up in our very final step, so if you pull too tightly during this step, you may have puckering in your fabric at the end.

Step 2 of weaving in ends

Finally, we finish up with step 3 and a tug.

Going forward once again, I skip one “strand” or “leg” just like in step 2, and slide the needle underneath four or five strands, giving a slight tug (but again, not too much!) Time to cut!

Cut the yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut the fabric itself! Now take it in your hands and, with one hand on either side of the area you’ve woven into, pull. Just give the whole a good tug. This will simultaneously pull ALL of the back-and-forths at the same time, securing everything very well.

step 3

Bulky

bulky

Bulky yarn, however, is usually a whole ‘nother story. Whether single ply or multi-plies, it is a rare occurrence that a great big strand of bulky-weight yarn can be woven in one whole piece without making a lump in the fabric.

When weaving in bulky weight yarns, I will split the plies (assuming it’s a multi-ply) and weave them in opposite directions. This alleviates the risk of lumping up the fabric. I like to use a needle threader to make it easy.

If your bulky yarn is a single ply….. well, we’re giving it to God. Just do the best you can, making sure to go in each direction even farther than you would normally go. If you only weave under two or three stitches, you will most assuredly have a lump, but if you weave under 10 stitches, then it’s much less noticeable.

Extra Help

I hope this post has been helpful to you. If so, I have other posts in the “Tricks of the Trade” category that may also help you when it comes to blocking your finished items, choosing the right hook, how to get started spinning yarn, and so much more. Furthermore, if you’ve found value in this post, please consider sharing, giving it a like, or leaving a comment. Everything you do for Rows and Roses is so appreciated ♥

Summer Silk

Summer Silk

FREE crochet pattern!

Summer Silk

Wrap your head in liquid luxury with this silk kerchief. Crocheted using a single skein of Luminance, two strands held double, Summer Silk head scarf will be your best friend all summer long. The open, lacy stitch pattern offers plenty of breathability, while the picot edging creates a cute border. Extra long straps cascade down from underneath, completing the look of playful elegance.

Grab a printable version of this pattern for just $1.99 here.

Pattern Info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, Standing DC, DC

Yarn:  WeCrochet’s Luminance (100% silk, 439yards/50g, one skein) held double

Hook:  G/4mm, or size needed to obtain gauge

Sizes:  Adult, size S/M (can be easily adjusted by adding an extra repeat or two!)

Gauge:  4 SC x 8 rows = 1” (gauge worked in SC only)

Summer Silk

NOTES:  
~ I like to wind my skein into a center-pull cake, and then use both the center and the outside strands held together. Some like to wind half the skein, cut, then wind the other half and use them like that. This is totally up to you!
~ For Summer Silk, I use a Standing Double Crochet (SDC) to start my DC rows. Here is a tutorial on how to do this, but if you’d rather use ch 3, that works too.

Let's Do It!

Pattern:

1) Ch 5 (counts as DC, ch 1, here and throughout,) (DC, ch 1, DC) in 1st ch. Turn.  = 5 sts

2) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 7 sts

3) Ch 1, 2 SC in first st, sk ch-1 sp and next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, 2 SC in last st. Turn.  = 9 sts

4) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next SC and next DC and next ch-1 sp, SC in next (center) DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC and SC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 11 sts

5) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp, (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  =13 st

6) Ch 1, 2 SC in first st, *sk ch-1 sp and next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, SC in next st; rep from * to end, ending with 2SC in last st. Turn.  = 15 st

7) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next SC and next DC and next ch-1 sp, *SC in next (center) DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next st; rep from * to end, skipping the next to last SC and placing your last (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in final st. Turn.  = 17 st

8) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC,* (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp,, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC; rep from * to end, putting (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 19 st

9-25) Rep Rows 6-8 five times, and then rows 6-7 once more. You should have a stitch count of 53.

Summer Silk Chart

Wrapping It Up

Now you will begin working in rounds.

1) Ch 1, SC around entire triangle, putting 3SC into each corner. Join to first SC with sl st.

2) Ch 1, SC in each stitch to first corner, (SC, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch, SC) down left side and up right side. Join with sl st. Cut yarn.

(If you have an extra stitch left over, it’s totally fine. Nobody will ever notice if you fudge it.)

Strap:

1) Ch 80, SC in first SC from last round and in each SC across front, ch 81. Turn.

2) Ch 1, SC in each ch and SC to end. Turn.

3) Ch 1, SC across to end. Turn.

Repeat Row 3 four more times. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Summer Silk

All Finished!

And you’re finished! I sure hope you get as much use out of your Summer Silk kerchief as I’m getting out of mine. I’d love to see yours if you want to show it off! Just post a picture to social media and tag it #RowsAndRosesSummerSilk so we can all see what you did! Be sure to check out the other free patterns on my blog, as well as the patterns in my Ravelry shop.  As always, if you need me, I’m only a click or two away.

Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks. 
Email: sati@rowsandroses.com
Website: www.rowsandroses.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Dad’s Can Cozy

Dad’s Can Cozy

FREE crochet pattern

Dad's can cozy

Guys are hard to crochet for, at least in my experience. So many crochet patterns are for more feminine items, and finding masculine crochet is challenging. Scarves are easy, but not for summer.  I needed something for my guys for Father’s Day, and this Dad’s Can Cozy is what I came up with. Whether he’s into beer or soda, or both, this can cozy is just what he needs. The back-loop-only stitches make it super textured for a firm grip. It will keep his hand and his can dry, and can be thrown into the washer and dryer along with everything else. Make him two in his favorite colors and he’ll never be without one!

To purchase the printable .pdf, click here.

For a Lightening Quick Tutorial of the single crochet back loop only (SCblo) click here.

Getting started

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, SCblo
Yarn:  Worsted cotton, approx. 50 yards (I used Dishie in the samples shown.)
Hook:  I/5.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
Sizes:  3.75” tall when on can, circumference of can

Gauge:  4 SC x 4 rounds = 1”

NOTES: 
After the base is finished, and you switch to white, ALL stitches will be worked in the back loop only. 

can cozy

Pattern

1) Ch 2, 6SC in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st.  = 6 SC

2) Ch 1, 2SC in each st around. Join.  = 12 SC

3) Ch 1, SC in first st, 2 SC in next st, *SC in next st, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.   = 18 SC

4) Ch 1, SC in first two sts, 2SC in next st, *SC in next two sts, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.  = 24 SC

5) Ch 1, SC in first three sts, 2SC in next st, *SC in next three sts, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.  = 30 SC

6) Ch 1, SCblo in each st around. Join.  

This is where I join the white and start making stripes. You can do this however you want: keep the whole thing one solid color, add another color and alternate each round to make stripes all the way up, or stripe it another way! The possibilities are endless. Just be sure to carry your unused color up each row by catching it at the join.

In the samples pictured above, the stripes are made on rows 17 and 19.

7-21) Ch 1, SCblo around. Join. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

You’re finished! Wasn’t that easy? If you enjoyed this pattern, please share by linking back to my blog or Ravelry shop. Every little thing you do to spread the word helps Rows and Roses to grow. Got questions? I’m only a click or two away!

May Showcase

May Showcase

Projects, patterns, and more!

Cape

Hi, how are you all? Still on this wild ride with the rest of us? It’s a crazy world right now, for sure.  I’ve decided to call this post May Showcase instead of the usual Round Up. Showcase just sounds so much nicer, so let’s stick with that from now on, yeah?

This month has been FULL of beautiful, scrumptious yarn that I have thoroughly enjoyed playing with. I’ve published a pattern, worked on writing some more patterns, am working on updating an oldie but goodie, and have had so many wonderful things fall off my hook! Let me show you…

Projects

I’ve had so much fun putting together this May Showcase for y’all! Above, you can see all the stuff I’ve been working on this month.

This month I crocheted two Baby Yoda dollies, wrote up a pattern and crocheted a bunch of Blooming Hand Towels, and made a bunch of Best Potholders. I completed the second in the Elemental Dragons series, Fire. A beaded cape and a YipYip went out to a sweet customer, and I got to stitch up another Carnival Glass! This one was for a great friend and customer, and in a colorway of Muse that I hadn’t used before, called “Untamed.” Didn’t it turn out so nice?

I also sent off a package to WeCrochet for their Independent Designers Program (IDP) so they could photograph all the items. Don’t you just love a big fluffy package of yarn stuffs?

Patterns

Blooming Hand Towel

I released this free pattern on my blog this month, and it has done astoundingly well! But really, who wouldn’t want a little row of join-as-you-go flowers gracing their kitchen? Click the pic to check it out!

Shawlette

This is the BIG DEAL pattern that will be hitting my Ravelry shop in June. My testers have been wonderful and I can’t wait to share it with you. Everyone needs a lace-weight shawlette for the summer! Click the pic to visit my Ravelry shop.

Lip Balm Cozy

My key-ring Lip Balm Cozy pattern will be the next to get a facelift. Grab it now at $1.99 before I add the stylesheet and spruce up the pics and the update will be FREE! If you wait until after the update goes through, the new price will be $4.99.

Plans

Now I want to tell you the most exciting part of this post (well, the most exciting for ME, anyway!)

As of right now, today, I have completed ALL orders, there is no test for WeCrochet in-house, both patterns accepted by Interweave Crochet are complete, and Summer Specials & Customs doesn’t open until next week. It will be open for a whole week, meaning I won’t be working on orders during that time. Then the yarn has to be ordered and will take at least another week to get to me so I can start work.

Do you know what this means?

It means I have THREE WHOLE WEEKS, at the very least, in which I can design patterns, update patterns, make swatches, send in proposals, and just generally enjoy some time playing with yarn. I am thrilled to have this little chunk of time for being creative and following my yarny desires. So far, I have around 10 design ideas that I plan to get down on paper, as well as swatched. I will be updating my lip balm cozy pattern in my Ravelry shop. Today I am even starting a purple-black alpaca/Merino/silk poncho FOR MYSELF! Ahhhh…. this is the life.

I hope you’ve enjoyed our May Showcase. If you have found value in this post, please share! Pin it, tweet it, drop a comment, follow me on instagram, hit up my facebook page (and from there, be sure to join my group because that’s where all the action is!) and check out some of the free patterns here on my blog. Thank you so much for being here. Your loyalty and patronage- and especially friendship- mean the world to me ♥

Get Hooked

Get Hooked

A crochet hook overview

scattered hooks

If I’ve learned anything about crochet hooks after 10 years of crocheting, it’s that they are deeply personal. I don’t know a single hooker who can use just any ol’ hook. We all have our “perfect hooks” and that tends to be what we stick with.

But what type of hooks are there? What makes hooks so different from each other? In today’s Get Hooked post, we’ll learn a little about hook anatomy, types, brands, and we’ll even talk to other crafters about what hooks they prefer, and why.

Tapered or inline

Before you can Get Hooked, you have to FIND a hook. Right? Also, the hook you find needs to work for you. So what if it doesn’t? What if you’re dropping your yarn off the hook with each stitch, or splitting the yarn each time you grab it?

There are two main types of hooks: tapered (such as Boye,) and inline (such as Susan Bates.) The tapered hooks have much narrower throats and rounder heads. The biggest concern with tapered hooks seems to be having the yarn slipping off the side of the head, meaning you’re having to re-grab the yarn, essentially making the stitch twice (or more.) This slows you down, as I’m sure you can see.

Tapered Hooks
Tapered Hooks

Inline hooks are straight all the way down from the head to the end of the shaft. The head is “in line” with the rest of the hook. They also tend to have a deeper throat, which I love because I feel it securely grabs the yarn the first time, and leaves nowhere for the yarn to slip off. The thing that most tapered fans have against inline hooks is they say it splits the yarn too often, due to the sharper edge.

I personally am an inline hook user all the way. I’ve never had any issues with splitting yarn (beyond what’s reasonable in the craft of crochet in general.) In fact, I can’t use a tapered hook at all anymore! Every stitch I make slips right off and I have to do it again. Inline hooks have greatly increased my speed and accuracy.

Inline Hooks
Inline Hooks

Let's hear what some other crafters have to say...

I have realized for me that I love lightweight, tapered hooks and I do not like big handles. For regular crochet, Furls streamlines are perfect for me bc of their shape, they are extremely lightweight and yarn glides over them wonderfully. For Amigurumi I love clovers crochet hooks. They are lightweight and I feel more comfortable using them to make cute Amigurumi with small, tight stitches. I also love their Tunisian interchangeable set because they are wooden, lightweight, easy to use and the interchangeable cords are awesome to have.

~ Alexandra Halsey from With Alex

When I first started crocheting, I tried both tapered and in-line to see what worked best for me, with a Bates vs Boye comparison. I found that I preferred the tapered Boye hook over the in-line Bates, but wished the tip of the Boye hook had a similar point to the Bates hook. I started using Clover Amour hooks, which I absolutely loved and are still my go to, though I have recently discovered Furls Odyssey, which to me is a blend of both styles, making me fly through my stitches, with their slightly tapered, slightly in-line, still smooth head with more point than Boye but maybe not as much as Bates. It’s the Goldilocks hook!
~ Kristen Caldwell, from Hooks Books and Wanderlust

My current favorite is the Clover soft touch. I like that its handle is shorter so it doesn’t start to hurt the right side of my hand (by my pinky) if I crochet for too long, which happens pretty often hah! I’m dying to try a furls, too, but I haven’t yet.

~ Mary from Kickin’ Crochet

After years of sore hands from crocheting to much, if there is such a thing, I tried Clover Soft Touch Hooks and fell in love with them. The thicker (and softer) handles relieved my sore and achy hands immediately. I love all the pretty handles and hooks on the market today, but I am too loyal to my Clovers to give them a try. Happy Crocheting! 
~ Christine from Sweet Potato 3

I learned to crochet using Boye hooks, and used them for over a decade until I was forced to use a Bates hook for a contract project. It was then that I discovered not only that the sizing is actually different between Boye and Bates, but the neck and hook are completely different as well. It took a little while to get used to the Bates hook, but once I did, I found it very difficult to go back to using my Boye hooks. I now have 3 sets of Bates hooks, and my poor Boyes are collecting dust.
~ Malena from Straight Hooked 

My personal favorites are inline hooks. There is a slightly different movement when crocheting with inline hooks compared to tapered hooks that doesn’t bother my wrists as much. I love the deeper throat as well since it grabs the yarn better–I can actually crochet faster! My favorite hooks are the classic Susan Bates hooks, and Furls hooks when my wrists and hands need a little more TLC.

~ Kirsten from Kirsten Holloway Designs

I’ve always preferred tapered hooks for most projects. With inline hooks, I find I split the yarn more often. My current favorite “everyday” hooks are Clover Amour. The soft, ergonomic grip is very comfortable, the weight feels just right to me, and of course they’ve got tapered ends. I also like that they list the size in mm on the hook.
~ Pia Thadani of Stitches n Scraps

I love Furls hooks. I recently switched (around November of last year) and can’t use anything else now. I switch between their streamline swirls, odysseys, and alphas depending on the project.
~ Pamela Stark of Sincerely Pam

Let's talk brands!

So now that you know all about different types, are you ready to get hooked? Which would you like to try and where can you find them? Here are a few different brands, along with my personal thoughts, as well as links for purchasing.

Radiant Hooks by WeCrochet

These are my very favorite wooden hooks ever, and that’s my real professional opinion, not my Ambassador’s opinion 😀 These hooks are inline, with a rounded head, and a satin-like finish. I’ve never had issues with splitting yarn with these, and I especially love the slight grip the wood offers to slippery yarns, like the Upcycle I used in SUNday.

Susan Bates at Hobby Lobby

These are my favorite aluminum hooks, as well as my first set of inlines. Since finding these, I’ll never again use a tapered hook. Susan Bates Silvalume hooks are light-weight aluminum and beautifully colored, with a deep throat and pointy tip. For me, they are the most perfect hooks I’ve ever used for any and all types of wool.

Clover Amour at WeCrochet

These Clover hooks are so pretty! Ergonomic handles make for comfortable stitching for those whole hold their hook like a knife (as opposed to the pencil hold,) and the bright colors are so lovely. These are tapered aluminum hooks in plastic handles.

Go hook yourself

There you have it, friends and neighbors. Tapered or inline, straight or ergonomic shafts, wood or metal or plastic, there are so many different types of hooks! Why not try out a few and see what you like? After talking with these other amazing crochet artists, I’m really excited to try some Furls hooks now, although I just don’t know if anything can take the place of my WeCrochet wooden or Susan Bates aluminum inline hooks.

If you have found value in this post, please share it, pin it, tweet it, or leave a comment. Thanks so much for all that you do to help Rows and Roses offer great content and get it out to the masses. You are loved and appreciated ♥

Blooming Hand Towel

Blooming Hand Towel

FREE Crochet pattern

Blooming Towel

Every now and then, I have an idea that doesn’t go as planned. Blooming Hand Towel is a great example! I wanted a kitchen towel for Mother’s Day to go with a Best Potholder and a Trivet in Bloom. I love making matching sets for my mom and she loves getting them! When I sat down with my yarn to design a kitchen towel, I don’t know what happened but I started making flowers. Then THIS happened, and it was even better than any of the ideas I had thought of before. I love it when that happens 🙂 Blooming Hand Towel includes some lovely little join-as-you-go flowers that are a cinch to make, with a solid body that is both absorbent and beautiful. And with all of the colors of Dishie Solids, Dishie Multi, and Dishie Twist available, you can make it to match any decor!

Want a printable .pdf of this pattern? Grab it here.

A little info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, DC, TC

Yarn:  Approx. 210 yards of worsted weight cotton
(WeCrochet Dishie, “Blush”  50 yards/ “Azure” Twist  160 yards)

Hook:  J/10

Sizes:  Approx. 23” long x 11” wide

Gauge:  First two rounds of flower = 2” across from petal to petal

flower

Blooming Hand Towel- let's get started!

Pattern:

First, we make three flowers and join them as we go.

First flower:

Ch 4. Join to form loop.

1) 12 DC in loop. Join.  = 12 DC (I always use a standing DC for my first, but if you want to use a ch 2 + DC, or a ch 3, you totally can. Personal preference here 🙂 )

2) Sl st into sp between first two DCs, 2 DC into each sp around. Join.  = 24 DC

3) Sk first DC, (3 DC, TC, 3 DC) into next st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st. This is petal #1. Now *sk next st, (3 DC, TC, 3DC) into next st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st; rep from * around to make petals #2-6. Join with a sl st into st we started in. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.  = 6 petals

Great! Your first flower is finished! Now we’re going to make a second, and then a third, and join them as we go. Ready?

Second flower:

Work rounds 1 and 2 just the same as the first flower.

3) *Sk first DC, (3 DC, TC) into next st, join with sl st into TC of petal #1 on first flower by holding the flowers wrong sides together and inserting the hook from back to front, 3 DC into that same stitch, sk 1 st, sl st into next st. This is petal #1. Rep from * once more for petal #2, joining in petal #2 of first flower. **Sk next st, (3 DC, TC, 3 DC) into next st, sk next st, sl st into next st. This is petal #3.  Rep from ** for petals #4-6. Join with sl st into st we started in. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Excellent! We’re nearly there. Now for the final flower.

Third flower:

Repeat second flower, but make sure to use petals #4 and #5 of second flower for joining, instead of #1 and #2.

Now you should have a nice little row of flowers connected to each other, just like this:

LineOfFlowers

Now to add the towel

Lay your row of flowers in front of you, right side up. Assuming you are right-handed, as this pattern is written right-handed, locate the two petals alllllll the way to the right. See that top one, the one pointing at about two o’clock? Now find the TC in that petal. That’s where we’re going to join our towel yarn. I like to use a different color for the towel, but if you want to use the same as your flowers, I’m not gonna try to talk you out of it. Life is short, do what makes you happy <3

Now join your towel yarn with a sl st into that TC. 

Ch 8, SC  into the TC of the petal just to the left of our starting petal, ch 12, SC into the topmost petal of the next flower, ch 12, SC into the TC of the topmost petal on the final flower, ch 8, sl st into the TC of the petal just to the left of the previous petal.

Now our towel is ready to go! Here’s what you have so far:

ConnectedFlowers

You're doing great!

Towel:

1) Sl st into the first 4 chs, SC into each of the next 4 chs, *SC into the next SC, SC into each of the next 12 chs* twice, SC into the next SC, SC into the next 4 chs leaving the last 4 chs unworked. Ch 1, turn.  = 35 SC

2) DC in each st to end. Ch 1, turn.  = 35 DC

3) SC in each st to end. Turn.  = 35 SC

Repeat rows 2-3 (21) times. Cut yarn.

Now go back to the chs we made when we first started the towel. With right side facing, join with sl st into the very first ch on the very first petal (remember the 4 chs that we left unworked on row 1? That first ch is what we’re looking for, joined to the TC of the first petal.)

Ch 1, SC in each ch, up the side of the towel (I usually put one SC into each SC row and two SCs into each DC row) across the top, down the other side, and into each of the 4 sl sts there at the end. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Mother's Day set
Full Towel

You're a stitching rockstar!

Thanks so much for purchasing my Blooming Handtowel pattern! I hope you enjoy making it as much as I do. Show us your towels! Share your finished towel on social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesBloomingHandtowel. Also, check out my Blooming Handtowel, Best Potholder, and Trivet for a great Mother’s Day gift set!

Want more free patterns? Check these out!
Don’t forget my 
shop for pre-orders and ready to ship items!

As always, if you ever need me, I’m only a click or two away:
Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks.
Email: sati@rowsandroses.com
Website: www.rowsandroses.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses