Category: Patterns

Felici On The Double Doubled

Felici On The Double Doubled

Free pattern!

FOTDD

You spoke and I listened! You wanted a Felici On The Double cowl that you could loop doubled
around your neck for a close and cozy fit. Therefore I present to you, Felici On The Double
Doubled! Worked in chevrons still, but with spaces between the stitches so as to stretch the
yardage further, this warm and stretchy cowl is sure to be your new favorite. Just like before,
any two Felici colorways you want to pair together, same starting chain, just a little lacier in the
construction. If you liked the original, I bet you will LOVE this one!

Grab the printable .pdf for just $1.99 here.

Getting Started

Stitches: Ch, DC, DC2tog over next 3 ch or st (here, you just skip the middle ch or st)

Yarn: WeCrochet’s Felici sock yarn (218 yards,) 2 balls held double throughout

Hook: I9/5.5mm

Sizes: 36” circumference, 7” wide

Gauge: 1 patt rep x 5 rows = 3”

FOTDD doubled

Pattern

Ch 33

1) 2DC in 3rd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1, DC, ch 1, sk 1, DC2 tog over next 3 ch, ch 1, sk 1, DC, ch 1, sk 1, (DC, ch 1, DC); rep from * twice, ending with 2DC in last ch instead of (DC, ch 1, DC.)

2) Ch 2, 2DC in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, DC, ch 1, sk 1, DC2tog over next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1, DC, ch 1, sk 1, (DC, ch 1, DC); rep from * twice, ending with 2DC in last st instead of (DC, ch 1, DC.)

Rep Row 2 until you’re almost out of yarn. I got 62 rows altogether on my first one, but you may get anywhere from 60 to 64. This is fine 🙂

Slip stitch ends together to close circle. And you’re finished. Wasn’t that so easy and enjoyable? I’d love to see your FOTD Doubled! Just post to social media with the hashtag
#RowsAndRosesFOTDD so we can all see what you’ve created! If you need me, I’m only a click
or two away.

Reflect

Reflect

FREE crochet pattern!

Reflect cloths

Want to make a really fun dish cloth? Do you want it to match your Blue Willow dishes? Look no further! This yarn is a perfect match for those family heirlooms; indeed it will look as if you chose yarn that was absolutely MADE for them! Reflect is worked in the round from the center out, using griddle stitch, and includes a single-crochet edging in a second color. The griddle stitch is solid, perfect for scrubbing! Additionally, the linen content in this yarn makes it nice and strong, so your dish cloth will last through many many scrubbings and washing and dryings. And you know what? I bet you can’t make just one. And why would you want to?

Want a printable .pdf of this pattern? Grab it here for just $1.99

Pattern Info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, DC, SDC (standing Double Crochet)

Yarn:  Cotlin Reflections (70% Tanguis cotton/30% linen, 246 yards/100g) less than half a skein per color. Samples shown in Stream, Crest, and Eclipse.

Hook:  US7/4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge. You will also need six (6) stitch markers.

Sizes:  9” straight across from tip to tip

Gauge:  6 SC x 10 rows = 2”

NOTES:

~ All odd number rounds are worked without increases.
~ All even number rounds are worked with increases.
~ Each even number round will increase by 12 st.

If you’ve never worked a SDC (standing Double Crochet) here’s a tutorial!

Let's do it!

Pattern:
Ch 4. Join with sl st to form a ring.

1) Ch 1, *SC, DC; rep from * five times. Join.  = 12 st

2) SDC, *(SC, DC, PM, SC) in next DC, DC in next SC; rep from * around, ending with (SC, DC, PM, SC) in last DC. Join.  = 24 st

3) Ch 1, *SC, DC; rep from * around.

4) SDC, SC,* (DC, SC, DC) in M, SC, DC, SC; rep from * around, ending with a SC in last st. Join.  = 36 st

5) Rep Round 3

6) SDC, *(SC, DC) to next M, (SC, DC, SC) in M, DC; rep from * around, ending with DC, SC. Join.  = 48 st

7) Rep Round 3

8) SDC, *SC, (DC, SC) to next M, (DC, SC, DC) in M; rep from * around, ending with SC, DC, SC. Join.  = 60 st

9) Rep Round 3

10) SDC, *(SC, DC) to M, (SC, DC, SC) in M, DC; rep from * around, ending with SC, DC, SC. Join.  = 72 st

Edging:

Join CC in same st for new round.

1) Ch 1, *SC to M, (SC, ch 2, SC) in M; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

2) Ch 1, *SC to ch-2 sp, (SC, ch 2, SC) in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

3) Rep Round 2

4) Ch 1, *SC to ch-2 sp, 3SC in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending with SC to end. Join.

Cut yarn, weave in ends. Block to measurements.

3 Reflect spread

All finished! Now go wash your dishes with their new best friend and see what they think 😉 I’d love to see your cloths! Share a pic to social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesReflect so we can all see what you’ve made (especially if you made them to match your RED WILLOW!) 

I have other free patterns available as well, such as Summer Silk and the ever-popular Felici On The Double Cowl. If you need anything or have any questions, as always I’m just a click or two away.

Summer Silk

Summer Silk

FREE crochet pattern!

Summer Silk

Wrap your head in liquid luxury with this silk kerchief. Crocheted using a single skein of Luminance, two strands held double, Summer Silk head scarf will be your best friend all summer long. The open, lacy stitch pattern offers plenty of breathability, while the picot edging creates a cute border. Extra long straps cascade down from underneath, completing the look of playful elegance.

Grab a printable version of this pattern for just $1.99 here.

Pattern Info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, Standing DC, DC

Yarn:  WeCrochet’s Luminance (100% silk, 439yards/50g, one skein) held double

Hook:  G/4mm, or size needed to obtain gauge

Sizes:  Adult, size S/M (can be easily adjusted by adding an extra repeat or two!)

Gauge:  4 SC x 8 rows = 1” (gauge worked in SC only)

Summer Silk

NOTES:  
~ I like to wind my skein into a center-pull cake, and then use both the center and the outside strands held together. Some like to wind half the skein, cut, then wind the other half and use them like that. This is totally up to you!
~ For Summer Silk, I use a Standing Double Crochet (SDC) to start my DC rows. Here is a tutorial on how to do this, but if you’d rather use ch 3, that works too.

Let's Do It!

Pattern:

1) Ch 5 (counts as DC, ch 1, here and throughout,) (DC, ch 1, DC) in 1st ch. Turn.  = 5 sts

2) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 7 sts

3) Ch 1, 2 SC in first st, sk ch-1 sp and next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, 2 SC in last st. Turn.  = 9 sts

4) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next SC and next DC and next ch-1 sp, SC in next (center) DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC and SC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 11 sts

5) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp, (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  =13 st

6) Ch 1, 2 SC in first st, *sk ch-1 sp and next DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp, SC in next st; rep from * to end, ending with 2SC in last st. Turn.  = 15 st

7) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next SC and next DC and next ch-1 sp, *SC in next (center) DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC, (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next st; rep from * to end, skipping the next to last SC and placing your last (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in final st. Turn.  = 17 st

8) (Standing DC, ch 1, DC) in first st, sk next ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC,* (DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC) in next SC, sk next DC and ch-1 sp,, SC in next DC, sk next ch-1 sp and DC; rep from * to end, putting (DC, ch 1, DC) in last st. Turn.  = 19 st

9-25) Rep Rows 6-8 five times, and then rows 6-7 once more. You should have a stitch count of 53.

Summer Silk Chart

Wrapping It Up

Now you will begin working in rounds.

1) Ch 1, SC around entire triangle, putting 3SC into each corner. Join to first SC with sl st.

2) Ch 1, SC in each stitch to first corner, (SC, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch, SC) down left side and up right side. Join with sl st. Cut yarn.

(If you have an extra stitch left over, it’s totally fine. Nobody will ever notice if you fudge it.)

Strap:

1) Ch 80, SC in first SC from last round and in each SC across front, ch 81. Turn.

2) Ch 1, SC in each ch and SC to end. Turn.

3) Ch 1, SC across to end. Turn.

Repeat Row 3 four more times. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Summer Silk

All Finished!

And you’re finished! I sure hope you get as much use out of your Summer Silk kerchief as I’m getting out of mine. I’d love to see yours if you want to show it off! Just post a picture to social media and tag it #RowsAndRosesSummerSilk so we can all see what you did! Be sure to check out the other free patterns on my blog, as well as the patterns in my Ravelry shop.  As always, if you need me, I’m only a click or two away.

Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks. 
Email: sati@rowsandroses.com
Website: www.rowsandroses.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Dad’s Can Cozy

Dad’s Can Cozy

FREE crochet pattern

Dad's can cozy

Guys are hard to crochet for, at least in my experience. So many crochet patterns are for more feminine items, and finding masculine crochet is challenging. Scarves are easy, but not for summer.  I needed something for my guys for Father’s Day, and this Dad’s Can Cozy is what I came up with. Whether he’s into beer or soda, or both, this can cozy is just what he needs. The back-loop-only stitches make it super textured for a firm grip. It will keep his hand and his can dry, and can be thrown into the washer and dryer along with everything else. Make him two in his favorite colors and he’ll never be without one!

To purchase the printable .pdf, click here.

For a Lightening Quick Tutorial of the single crochet back loop only (SCblo) click here.

Getting started

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, SCblo
Yarn:  Worsted cotton, approx. 50 yards (I used Dishie in the samples shown.)
Hook:  I/5.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
Sizes:  3.75” tall when on can, circumference of can

Gauge:  4 SC x 4 rounds = 1”

NOTES: 
After the base is finished, and you switch to white, ALL stitches will be worked in the back loop only. 

can cozy

Pattern

1) Ch 2, 6SC in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st.  = 6 SC

2) Ch 1, 2SC in each st around. Join.  = 12 SC

3) Ch 1, SC in first st, 2 SC in next st, *SC in next st, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.   = 18 SC

4) Ch 1, SC in first two sts, 2SC in next st, *SC in next two sts, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.  = 24 SC

5) Ch 1, SC in first three sts, 2SC in next st, *SC in next three sts, 2SC in next st; rep from * around. Join.  = 30 SC

6) Ch 1, SCblo in each st around. Join.  

This is where I join the white and start making stripes. You can do this however you want: keep the whole thing one solid color, add another color and alternate each round to make stripes all the way up, or stripe it another way! The possibilities are endless. Just be sure to carry your unused color up each row by catching it at the join.

In the samples pictured above, the stripes are made on rows 17 and 19.

7-21) Ch 1, SCblo around. Join. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

You’re finished! Wasn’t that easy? If you enjoyed this pattern, please share by linking back to my blog or Ravelry shop. Every little thing you do to spread the word helps Rows and Roses to grow. Got questions? I’m only a click or two away!

Blooming Hand Towel

Blooming Hand Towel

FREE Crochet pattern

Blooming Towel

Every now and then, I have an idea that doesn’t go as planned. Blooming Hand Towel is a great example! I wanted a kitchen towel for Mother’s Day to go with a Best Potholder and a Trivet in Bloom. I love making matching sets for my mom and she loves getting them! When I sat down with my yarn to design a kitchen towel, I don’t know what happened but I started making flowers. Then THIS happened, and it was even better than any of the ideas I had thought of before. I love it when that happens 🙂 Blooming Hand Towel includes some lovely little join-as-you-go flowers that are a cinch to make, with a solid body that is both absorbent and beautiful. And with all of the colors of Dishie Solids, Dishie Multi, and Dishie Twist available, you can make it to match any decor!

Want a printable .pdf of this pattern? Grab it here.

A little info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, DC, TC

Yarn:  Approx. 210 yards of worsted weight cotton
(WeCrochet Dishie, “Blush”  50 yards/ “Azure” Twist  160 yards)

Hook:  J/10

Sizes:  Approx. 23” long x 11” wide

Gauge:  First two rounds of flower = 2” across from petal to petal

flower

Blooming Hand Towel- let's get started!

Pattern:

First, we make three flowers and join them as we go.

First flower:

Ch 4. Join to form loop.

1) 12 DC in loop. Join.  = 12 DC (I always use a standing DC for my first, but if you want to use a ch 2 + DC, or a ch 3, you totally can. Personal preference here 🙂 )

2) Sl st into sp between first two DCs, 2 DC into each sp around. Join.  = 24 DC

3) Sk first DC, (3 DC, TC, 3 DC) into next st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st. This is petal #1. Now *sk next st, (3 DC, TC, 3DC) into next st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st; rep from * around to make petals #2-6. Join with a sl st into st we started in. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.  = 6 petals

Great! Your first flower is finished! Now we’re going to make a second, and then a third, and join them as we go. Ready?

Second flower:

Work rounds 1 and 2 just the same as the first flower.

3) *Sk first DC, (3 DC, TC) into next st, join with sl st into TC of petal #1 on first flower by holding the flowers wrong sides together and inserting the hook from back to front, 3 DC into that same stitch, sk 1 st, sl st into next st. This is petal #1. Rep from * once more for petal #2, joining in petal #2 of first flower. **Sk next st, (3 DC, TC, 3 DC) into next st, sk next st, sl st into next st. This is petal #3.  Rep from ** for petals #4-6. Join with sl st into st we started in. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Excellent! We’re nearly there. Now for the final flower.

Third flower:

Repeat second flower, but make sure to use petals #4 and #5 of second flower for joining, instead of #1 and #2.

Now you should have a nice little row of flowers connected to each other, just like this:

LineOfFlowers

Now to add the towel

Lay your row of flowers in front of you, right side up. Assuming you are right-handed, as this pattern is written right-handed, locate the two petals alllllll the way to the right. See that top one, the one pointing at about two o’clock? Now find the TC in that petal. That’s where we’re going to join our towel yarn. I like to use a different color for the towel, but if you want to use the same as your flowers, I’m not gonna try to talk you out of it. Life is short, do what makes you happy <3

Now join your towel yarn with a sl st into that TC. 

Ch 8, SC  into the TC of the petal just to the left of our starting petal, ch 12, SC into the topmost petal of the next flower, ch 12, SC into the TC of the topmost petal on the final flower, ch 8, sl st into the TC of the petal just to the left of the previous petal.

Now our towel is ready to go! Here’s what you have so far:

ConnectedFlowers

You're doing great!

Towel:

1) Sl st into the first 4 chs, SC into each of the next 4 chs, *SC into the next SC, SC into each of the next 12 chs* twice, SC into the next SC, SC into the next 4 chs leaving the last 4 chs unworked. Ch 1, turn.  = 35 SC

2) DC in each st to end. Ch 1, turn.  = 35 DC

3) SC in each st to end. Turn.  = 35 SC

Repeat rows 2-3 (21) times. Cut yarn.

Now go back to the chs we made when we first started the towel. With right side facing, join with sl st into the very first ch on the very first petal (remember the 4 chs that we left unworked on row 1? That first ch is what we’re looking for, joined to the TC of the first petal.)

Ch 1, SC in each ch, up the side of the towel (I usually put one SC into each SC row and two SCs into each DC row) across the top, down the other side, and into each of the 4 sl sts there at the end. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Mother's Day set
Full Towel

You're a stitching rockstar!

Thanks so much for purchasing my Blooming Handtowel pattern! I hope you enjoy making it as much as I do. Show us your towels! Share your finished towel on social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesBloomingHandtowel. Also, check out my Blooming Handtowel, Best Potholder, and Trivet for a great Mother’s Day gift set!

Want more free patterns? Check these out!
Don’t forget my 
shop for pre-orders and ready to ship items!

As always, if you ever need me, I’m only a click or two away:
Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks.
Email: sati@rowsandroses.com
Website: www.rowsandroses.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Trivet In Bloom

Trivet In Bloom

FREE crochet pattern!

Trivet

How about a FREE crochet pattern for Mother’s Day? I present to you, Trivet in Bloom! While I was running a CAL for my Best Potholder You’ll Ever Own, I got the idea that maybe for Mother’s Day this year, I could create a matching trivet and kitchen towel to make a set. I knew that flowers would be great, but I just wasn’t exactly sure how I could make that work for a trivet. It came to me while in bed one night trying to get to sleep (isn’t that always the way??) The next morning I gave it a shot, and the most lovely little flower just fell off my hook. This is what I give you today, a Trivet in Bloom for the special lady in your life (and yes, that could totally be YOU!) 

If you want a printable .pdf version of this pattern, find it here.

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, SC, DC

Yarn: 2 colors of worsted weight cotton, approx. 50 yards each
(I like Dishie but you can use whatever you like.)

Hook:  J/10

Sizes:  8” across from tip to tip

Gauge:  6 DC x 4 rows = 2”

Trivet In Bloom. Let's do it!

Pattern:

Flower

Ch 4, join with sl st to form a circle.

1) DC 12 inside the circle. Join. = 12 DC

2) 2 DC in each st around. Join. = 24 DC

3) *(DC, ch 1, DC) in next st, sk next st* around. Join. = 24 DC, 12 ch-1 sps

4) *(2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC) in next ch-1 sp, 2 SC in next ch-1 sp* around. Join. = 24 DC, 6 ch-2 sps, 12 SC

5) *8 DC in ch-2 sp, ch 2* around. Join. = 48 DC, 6 ch-2 sps

6) Sl st your way to the middle of the 8 DCs so that you are starting this round BETWEEN the 4th and 5th DC. *(DC, ch 1, DC) in sp between 4th and 5th st, ch 4, DC in each ch of the ch-2 sp, ch 4* around. Join. = 24 DC, 6 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-4 sps

7) *SC in DC, 3 SC in ch-1 sp, SC in next DC, 4 SC in ch-4 sp, SC2tog in the next two DC, 4 SC in ch-4 sp* around. Join. = 84 SC

Cut yarn. Weave in ends.

Now for the backing hexagon

Ch 4. Join to form a circle.

1) DC 12 inside the circle. Join. = 12 DC

2) 2 DC in each st around. Join. = 24 DC

3) *DC in next st, 2 DC in next st* around. Join. = 36 DC

4) 2 DC in first st, (DC in each of the next 5 sts, 3 DC in next st) 5 times, DC in each of the next 5 st, DC one more time in the same stitch as your first two DCs of this round. This puts 3 DC in that very first st. Join.  = 48 DC

5) 2 DC in first st, (DC in each of the next 7 sts, 3 DC in next st) 5 times, DC in each of the next 7 st, DC one more time in the same stitch as your first two DCs of this round. This puts 3 DC in that very first st.  Join. = 60 DC

6) 2 DC in first st, (DC in each of the next 9 sts, 3 DC in next st) 5 times, DC in each of the next 9 st, DC one more time in the same stitch as your first two DCs of this round. This puts 3 DC in that very first st.  Join. = 72 DC

7) 2 SC in first st, (SC in each of the next 11 sts, 3 SC in next st) 5 times, SC in each of the next 11 st, SC one more time in the same stitch as your first two SC of this round. This puts 3 SC in that very first st. Join.  = 84 SC 

DO NOT CUT YARN!

Time to assemble

Now you’re going to stack your flower piece on top of your backing piece, with both right sides facing up, NOT facing together. Line up the first st on each of these pieces. Remove your hook from the loop on the backing piece, insert it through the first st on the flower piece, grab that loop, and pull it through. 

Ch 1, SC through both pieces at the same time, all the way around, joining them together. Cut yarn, weave in ends.

Now for a little surface crochet, but only if you want!

Taking a new strand of the same color you used for your backing piece and holding it in back of your trivet, stick your hook through both trivet pieces together in the top of the VERY FIRST stitches you made, in the first round, and pull up a loop of yarn. Slip stitch around through the tops of all of your round 1 stitches, through both pieces, joining the centers together. When you get back around to your first stitch where you started, slip stitch into that one one more time, cut your yarn, and use a tapestry needle to pull the yarn through the first stitch to the back. Weave in ends.

And do it again if you want to, through the stitches in the second round! Do it all the same way, weave in your ends, and now the center of your trivet is connected together. This surface crochet used to join isn’t absolutely necessary, but it keeps the two pieces from flopping apart in the center.

trivet collage

All finished!

Trivet potholder

I hope you love this pattern as much as I do! If you want to make a matching set, check out my Best Potholder pattern and keep an eye out for a hand towel pattern that I’m working on, as well.
I’d love to see your trivets. Post yours on social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesTrivet so we can all see what you’ve made!

If you’ve found value in this post, please considering sharing it. Forward the link, post on facebook, instagram, pinterest, twitter, and anywhere else you hang out. Check out my shop (there are Best Potholders!) join my facebook group, and crochet along with us in the Ravelry group. Every little thing you do to support my little business is so appreciated ♥

SUNday FREE PATTERN!

SUNday FREE PATTERN!

FREE crochet pattern

Sunday Collage

SUNday is a cheerful sunny scarf, and just what we all need to hurry Spring on her way. Crocheted lace is one of my favorite springtime indulgences. This stitch pattern, worked on the bias, offers interest during crocheting and produces a naturally scalloped edge. Worked in WeCrochet’s Upcycle Alpaca, a drapey DK weight, the alpaca makes it nice and soft, while the silk and Tencel give it a gorgeous sheen. This one-skein scarf is a quick project, so why not make two and gift the second to a very special person in your life!

You can get a .pdf version of this pattern for just $1.99 on Ravelry. This makes it easily printable so you can take it with you, and it helps support me in the writing of even more patterns. Even if you don’t purchase the .pdf, please go rate it for me!

If you love this pattern, check out some of my other FREE patterns, as well as my Ravelry shop.

A little info

Stitches:  Ch, sl st, beg V-st (ch 4, DC) V-st (DC, ch 1, DC) W-st (DC, ch 1, DC ch 1, DC)

Yarn:  200 yards DK (WeCrochet’s Upcycle Alpaca, alpaca/silk/Tencel, 1 skein)

Hook:  H

Sizes:  Approx. 5” wide x 62” long, unblocked (if you use a whole skein of Upcycle Aplaca)

Gauge:  3 V-sts x 3 rows = 2” approx.

Notes:  Ch 4 in beg V-st counts as (DC, ch1) and ch 3 at the beginning for row 3 counts as a DC.

Let's get hookin'!

Pattern:

Ch 32

Row 1) V-st in 5th ch from hook, *sk 2 chs, V-st in next ch* eight times, sk 2 chs, W-st in last ch. Ch 1. Turn.   = 9 V-sts

Row 2) Sl in 1st ch-1 sp, beg V-st in same ch-1 sp, V-st in each ch-1 sp to end. Ch 1. Turn.  = 11 V-sts

Row 3) Sl in 1st ch-1 sp, ch 3, *V-st in next ch-1 sp* to last ch-1 sp, W-st in last ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Turn.  = 9 V-sts

Repeat rows 2-3 until desired length or until you run out of yarn. Finish off. Weave in ends.

Yup, that’s literally the whole entire thing. Wasn’t that the most enjoyable and stress-free little piece of crochet you’ve ever done? Now you’re ready to spring in style! I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern. I’d love to see your finished scarf! Share your project on social media with the hashtag #RowsAndRosesSUNday so we can all see how you’ve made it your own! As always, if you have any questions, just ask. I’m easy to find 🙂

Flatter

Flatter

FREE Crochet Pattern!

Flatter Collage

The free Felici on the Double cowl pattern was such a big hit! So how about a new free crochet pattern to welcome in the Spring that surely MUST be coming! Free is good, yeah? Yeah.

This youth summer hat is the perfect canvas to show off your style! Gorgeous left as-is, it can also hold all the flowers, feathers, ribbons, and accoutrements you want. The sky’s the limit! I’ve been able to wear this hat myself, no problem, but I realize that not everyone has the same sized head. Therefore, I have named it a youth hat. Should you choose to add more increases, I fully support you! 

If you love this pattern- or even just kinda like it- you can get a printable .pdf here.

If you want to check out my other patterns, I think you’ll like them!

Flatter: free crochet pattern for you!

Free crochet pattern

Stitches:  ch, sl, SC, SCblo, DC

Yarn:  DK weight, 100 yards (I used one ball of WeCrochet’s Cotlin, and had some left over)

Hook:  I/9, or size needed to obtain gauge

Sizes:  Youth 18”

Gauge: After round 2, your circle should be 2.5” across

Brigit Flatter

**NOTES: Always start your round in the very first stitch, which is the same stitch you joined in. Also, I always use a Standing DC as my first stitch, but you can use a ch 3 or  whatever you prefer.**

Here we go!

Pattern:

Start with a magic ring, or ch 4 and sl st in first ch to join into a ring.

Round 1) 12 DC in ring. Join.  = 12 DC

Round 2) 2 DC in each st around. Join.  = 24 DC

Round 3) *DC in next st, 2DC in next st* around. Join.  = 36 DC

Round 4) *DC in next 2 sts, 2DC in next st* around. Join.  = 48 DC

Round 5) *DC in next 3 sts, 2DC in next st* around. Join.  = 60 DC

Round 6) *DC in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1* around. Join.  = 50 DC, 10 ch-1 sps

Round 7) *DC in next 4 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, DC in ch-1 sp* around. Join. 

Round 8) *DC in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, DC in ch-1 sp, DC in next st* around. Join.

Round 9) *DC in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, DC in ch-1 sp, DC in next 2 sts* around. Join.

Round 10) *DC in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, DC in ch-1 sp, DC in next 3 sts* around. Join. 

Round 11) Sl into ch-1 sp, *DC in ch-1 sp, DC into next 4 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st* around.

Round 12) Repeat round 7

Round 13) Repeat round 8

Round 14) SC in each st and ch-1 sp around. Join.  = 60 SC

Round 15) *SCblo in next 3 sts, 2 SCblo in next st* around. Join. = 75 SC

Round 16) SC around. Join.  = 75 SC

Rounds 17-20) Repeat Round 16

Cut yarn. Weave in ends. Embellish as you wish, or leave as is. Enjoy your hat!

Brigit Flatter Profile
Gayl Flatter

Sati Glenn, owner and operator of Rows and Roses Fiberworks. 

Email: sati@rowsandroses.com

Website: www.rowsandroses.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/rowsandrosescrochet

Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/rows-and-roses

Felici On The Double Cowl

Felici On The Double Cowl

FREE crochet pattern!

Felici cowl

In the spirit of Thanksgiving, I am giving you all this Felici On The Double Cowl crochet pattern I wrote, for free. I am so thankful for you! If you don’t know about Felici, this is a Knit Picks Special Reserve yarn that only stocks twice a year, and is much loved and coveted by Felici lovers such as myself. In fact, we tend to be known for never using it, in fear that no pattern we choose will do it justice. In my humble opinion, this pattern does! If you decide to crochet this cowl, please hit the “favorite” button and create a project page on Ravelry. There are precious few crochet patterns written specifically for Felici, and I’m hoping to remedy that. On to the pattern!

Get your printable .pdf copy of this pattern for just $1.99 and help support my little business!

**Find the matching hat pattern HERE **

Felici On The Double Cowl

Crochet Cowl

Materials:    Hook size I/5.5mm, 2 balls of Felici (can be same or different colorways)

Before you get started:

~ This pattern is written for two strands of yarn held together at the same time.

~ There is a strangeish stitch here where you work a DC2tog decrease over 3 sts instead of two. Basically you will skip the middle of the 3 sts completely, working your decrease into the 1st and 3rd sts.

~ The ch 2 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch.

Gauge is not important, just know that you may have to stop a row early if you use a bigger hook or get a bigger gauge. No big deal 🙂 For more on why gauge IS usually important, check out this post.

My finished cowl was 8″ wide by 28″ circumference. Your size may vary, and this is okay! This pattern is meant to be laid back and stress free, so don’t overthink it!

felici cowl

Time to get hookin'!

Instructions:

  • ch 33, with both strands held together
  • Foundation row: 2DC in 2nd ch from hook, *DC in next 3 chs, DC2tog over next 3 chs skipping middle one, DC in next 3 chs, 3DC in next ch** repeat * to ** to end, ending with only 2DC in last ch. Turn. = 31 sts
  • Ch 2, 2DC in first st, *DC in next 3 sts, DC2tog over next 3 sts skipping middle st, DC in next 3 sts, 3DC in next st** repeat * to ** to end, ending with only 2 DC in last st. Turn. = 33 sts

Repeat previous row until almost out of yarn (I got 48 rows.) Then, line up ends and sl st together to form the cowl. Weave in ends. Was this the easiest thing ever?

felici cowl

I can’t wait to see your color combos! Post your finished object on facebook or instagram with the hashtag #FeliciOnTheDouble so we can all be inspired!
I hope you enjoy this Felici On The Double Cowl FREE crochet pattern. Writing patterns is time-consuming and labor intensive, so I don’t often offer them for free. Please, if you love this pattern, share this post! Share on facebook, link from your blog, or share in Ravelry forums. We need more Felici crochet patterns, so let’s help get this one out there! ♥

I have uploaded a .pdf version of this pattern to Ravelry to make it easier to print and take with you. For the month of January (2020) you can get it free using the code CAL when you check out. Otherwise, it’s just $1.99 like all my patterns. Thanks for your support! Get it here.

THROWBACK: Candy Corn Sack

THROWBACK: Candy Corn Sack

**FREE CROCHET PATTERN**

In honor of my very favorite time of year, I decided to move my free crochet pattern for this Candy Corn Sack over to the new blog, for your hooking pleasure 🙂 This was hugely popular when I first released it. If you haven’t made one yet, you still have time before Halloween! If you love this, please share ♥

(Original post from 2017)

Here at Rows and Roses, we’re all so excited for cooler weather and scary good times. I created this pattern for Halloween this year, for my kids and for a round of Halloween specials that just recently closed in my group. You know I never publish free patterns, so I thought I’d spread a little spooky fun and share it with you 🙂

One thing, though: please make sure that if you choose to share this pattern with your friends (and I sure hope you will!) that you only provide a link to this blog or to the pattern on Ravelry. Writing a pattern takes a long time and always makes me want to cry a little, so please never claim a pattern as your own or copy & paste any part of it. Always link!

Alright, let’s have it:

Candy Corn Sack

Free crochet pattern

Materials:(1) skein I Love This Yarn (Hobby Lobby brand) in “Ivory” (40 yards)

(1) skein I Love This Yarn in “Desert Glaze” (75 yards)
(1) skein I Love This Yarn in “Yellow” (90 yards)
Hook- size 7 (gauge isn’t important, so whatever makes a good fabric for you)

Stitches Used:
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc) 
Slip stitch (sl st)
Increase (inc) two sc in next st
Decrease (dec) pull up a loop in each of the next 2 sts, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook
Half double crochet (hdc) In this pattern, these are only worked INTO THE                                              STITCH BELOW the stitch you would normally work into. This is to create a thick, sturdy, reinforced handle.

The way I work up this bag is by putting 2 increases, an equal distance apart, into every round. This forms a nice, slow flare, making the triangle shape not too deep and not too shallow. I work in a spiral, so no joining rounds (until close to the end.) I use a stitch marker near the beginning of the rounds just so I know where I am.

Let’s get started!

With Ivory:
Ch 4. Join with sl st to form a ring. 
6 sc in center of ring. DO NOT JOIN, here and throughout until instructed.
*Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts* twice. = 8sc
*Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts* twice. = 10sc
*Inc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts* twice. = 12sc

Continue in this manner until you have 50 sc around, or, as I prefer to count my sections separately, 25 sc from one inc to the next.

Change to Desert Glaze in last st.

With Desert Glaze:
*Inc in next st, sc in each of the next 24 sts* twice. = 52sc
*Inc in next st, sc in each of the next 25 sts* twice. = 54sc

Continue in this manner, remembering to move your stitch marker each time it starts to shift too much, until you have 90 sc, or 45 sc from one inc to the next.

Change to Yellow in last st.

With Yellow:
*Inc in the next st, sc in each of the next 44 sts* twice. = 92sc
*Inc in the next st, sc in each of the next 45 sts* twice. = 94sc

Continue for 3 more rounds, until you have 100 sc around, or 50 sc from one inc to the next.

NOW YOU WILL JOIN by slipping into the next st (which would be the first st of the next round.)
Ch 1.
Now you’re starting the even, joined rounds.
*sc around. Join with sl st. Ch 1.* 5 times altogether. You now have 5 even joined rounds of 100 sc.

Time to start the handles!
Still with Yellow:
  sc 15, ch 28, skip 20 sts, sc 30, ch 28, skip 20 sts, sc in 15. Join.

Now we will work 3 rounds of sc, while decreasing at the places where the handles “join” the bag.

*sc in each st to 1 sc before ch, dec in next sc and 1st ch, sc in each ch to last ch, dec in next ch and 1st sc after ch* twice, sc in remaining sts. Join. = 112sc

*sc in each st until 1 sc before dec, dec in next sc and dec, sc in each st to dec, dec in dec and next sc* twice, sc in remaining sts. Join. = 108sc

Repeat previous round. = 104sc

To finish up, we’re going to work a final round of hdc, working into the stitches one row below. THESE ARE THE STITCHES YOU JUST WORKED INTO ON THE PREVIOUS ROUND. This creates a thick reinforced ridge at the top of the handles.

hdc in each st BELOW, all the way around, skipping the decreases altogether. (You will see where the decreases from the previous row are, there will be 3 “holes” in which you can place a stitch. You will hdc into the first “hole,” skip the second, and hdc into the third. If reading this doesn’t make much sense, it will once you’re actually doing it. Don’t worry, keep going <3 )  = 104hdc

That’s it! You’re all finished! Grab a yarn needle and weave in your ends, then go collect as much candy as possible <3

If you like this free crochet pattern, please leave a comment here, on Rav, favorite it, queue it, Pin it, pass it on, visit my facebook page, join my group, or drop me an email.

Check out all the pretty stuff I’m offering in my shop right now!